bonnie tsui


December, 2004
Where to Go for the Holidays 2004
It's that time of year—when flickering lights illuminate the sky, snow blankets the ground, and airports overflow with travelers. While destinations that promise a white Christmas are the obvious choice (and for good reason), holiday cheer can also be found in the vibrant colors of a tropical coral reef, in a grand European palace, or at a timeless Himalayan teahouse. We've searched the globe for unexpected places that satisfy every whim—the possibilities are endless.

Bocas del Toro, Panama
WHY NOW Leaping dolphins replace Santa's reindeer; white-sand beaches provide the seasonal backdrop; and a costumed holiday parade ushers in the festivities at Bocas del Toro, the main city in the archipelago of the same name, off the northwest coast of Panama. Its culture has a Caribbean flavor, a result of longtime immigration from Jamaica. And although Spanish is the official language, many islanders are fluent in English.

WHERE TO STAY The six solar-powered bungalows suspended over Almirante Bay at Punta Caracol Acqua-Lodge (011-507/612-1088; www.puntacaracol.com.pa; doubles from $325) are only a 15-minute water-taxi ride from Bocas del Toro. Bungalows have terraces that give guests private access to a coral reef teeming with parrot fish, snapper, and other tropical marine life.

CHRISTMAS DINNER The hotel's thatched-roof, open-air Restaurant Punta Caracol (dinner for two $50) also sits on stilts over the water. A live Latin band strikes an upbeat note while guests sip champagne and enjoy a traditional Christmas dinner of turkey with almonds, hazelnuts, and raisins and oven-smoked ham topped with pineapple. On New Year's Eve, the owner, José-Luis Bordas, arranges an illuminating fireworks show from boats anchored offshore.

NATURAL ATTRACTION Bordas will gladly set up a boat trip to the pristine (and protected) Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park (011-507/315-0855; park entrance fee $10), about 30 minutes southeast of the ecolodge. Here, hike through the mangrove forests, check out the famous ranas rojas (tiny native red frogs) at the aptly named Red Frog Beach, and dive offshore to see more than 200 species of fish—and, if you're lucky, a nesting sea turtle.

SANTA WHO? January 6 is the festival of Los Tres Reyes Magos (the three wise kings). On the night of the fifth, join Panamanian children by placing your shoes on the windowsill so the Magi can fill them with presents as they pass by during the wee hours.

STOCKING STUFFERS Super Gourmet La Boca Loca (Main St.; 011-507/757-9357) carries treats from the Caribbean Chocolate Co., which specializes in rich, dark varieties that are handmade from Bocas—grown organic cacao (an indigenous crop) using centuries-old fermenting and roasting methods. Stop by Artesanias Bribri (Main St.; 011-507/757-9652) to pick up molas—Panama's famously colorful handmade fabrics, traditionally worn by local Kuna Indian women.

Three More Latin-Jungle Adventures
Hike among the spider monkeys, tapirs, and jaguars in Honduras's Pico Bonito National Park, a nature preserve 30 minutes from La Ceiba with 247,000 acres of unspoiled cloud forest and rain forest. Trails run from the park to the adjacent Lodge at Pico Bonito (011-504/440-0388; www.picobonito.com; doubles from $195), a 200-acre property with its own tropical butterfly farm.

Explore several topographies with Mountain Travel-Sobek's new 10-day Belize: Rain Forest to Reef multisport trip (888/687-6235; www.mtsobek.com; from $3,350 per person). Expect to hike ruins and sea-kayak to the remote southern barrier reef.

Guatemala's Maya Biosphere Reserve is one of the largest tropical forests in Central America. Trek through it with the aid of packhorses, from El Zotz Biotope (known for its forest and bat caves) to Tikal (the country's most famous archaeological site), with Ecomaya (011-502/7926-4981; www.ecomaya.com; three-day trips from $149 per person).





in this publication

November 2006
Canton Revisited

July, 2005
My Chinatown

December, 2004
Where to Go for the Holidays 2004

November, 2004
Tasmania Bound

December, 2003
Paradise Island

January, 2003
Channel Islands, California

August, 2002
If You Build It, They Will Come

July, 2002
T+L File: Vancouver

June, 2002
Housing Shortage of Olympic Proportions