bonnie tsui


April 8, 2000
Mikro Waves
Forget the high-season hell of Mykonos and Santorini. If you want to hop around the Greek isles, think small and glorious: the Cyclades. Bonnie Tsui travels back in time.

The mystical mythologies of Greece have haunted cultures the world over with stories of Zeus' lightning-fast temper and the punishments imposed on vainglorious youth, such as Arachne, who was turned into a spider for claiming to be a better seamstress than the goddess Athena. When you return from a holiday in the Cyclades, you'll be busy spinning your own yarns.

Especially suited for the young (and the restless) traveler, this is uncharted territory for adventures aboard motorcycles and challenging hikes up to ancient monasteries. I arrive on the tiny isle of Schinoussa on a warm, early July morning to find that Angilos, the young man who answered my call for accommodation the night before, is running late to meet my ferry. All boats dock at the tiny Mersini port, and it speaks volumes about Greek hospitality (which is alive and kicking in this unspoilt little paradise) that Markos, a friendly of Angilos who also has rooms to let, give me a lift up to town.

We pass Markos' domatia (local rooms to let) tucked conveniently above his family's restaurant, the Panorama. Its tables overlook the seaside and the ploughed fields below, and the menu changes daily, delivering a varied selection of delicious scents up to the rooms above. On these tiny islands, domatia are the best bet for inexpensive and comfortable accommodation, because hotels are few and far between, as well as exorbitantly priced.

Family-let rooms are airy and clean, and though they tend not to be air-conditioned as in higher-end hotels, the quiet breeze at night is more than adequate to keep you cool. It's always best to call ahead because, as you can imagine, rooms are limited in these tiny towns.

Peeking curiously into the open car windows as we rattle up the dirt road are several of the roughly 120 year-round inhabitants of Schinoussa's chora, or main town. Murmurs of "kalimera" float in the morning air.

I return the "good morning" greetings and, before I know it, the Schinoussa adventure has begun. That afternoon, I meet Angilos and his four brothers: Manolis, Dimitris, Antonis, and Christos, in age order (Angilos comes before Christos). That night I get lucky. The island's only proper nightclub had just opened the week before and—you guessed it—the five fab brothers own the joint.

Ostria Café, as it's called, is a beautiful outdoor beach bar and restaurant at Tsigouri, the island's biggest beach. Located about 10 minutes' walk down a rocky path from the chora, it doubles as a daytime hangout and supplier of coffees, kayaks, waterskis, and volleyballs, provided that you join in with the brothers and other locals in a game or two. But no pressure. Like the rest of Greece, sports are more about fun and relaxation than high-octane competition.

The water is clear and warm for swimming, and the fine sand ideal for mid-afternoon naps. Ostira is also the site of my first sting as a DJ. Behind the bar on my first night, I spin up some luscious Latin beats and Spanish swing for a family party, in exchange for a few beers and one of the amazing stuffed tomatoes that Maria makes—they're the island's best.

Happily, the primary diversions on islands like Schinoussa are swimming, sunning, and shooting the breeze in broken Greek (as well as Spanish, Italian, and English, depending on whom you talk to) with the local characters over a satisfying meal.

A common method of eating in Greece is the ordering of mezedes, little platefuls of food that allow all at the table to share in the different flavors, including tzatziki (cool yogurt and cucumber garlic dip), warm saganaki (friend cheese), and dolmades (vine leaves stuffed with meat and other goodies).

Schinoussa brims with a multitude of hidden beaches, your reward on this island if you're just willing to look. The roads are a dust-filled mess, so walking is the primary means of transport. Psili Ammos is a beach on the other side of the island from Mersini, with lots of little coves and lovers' nooks. Locals camp out at various inlets on the island, having cookouts and splashing down in the water when the sun gets too hot. Equally fierce are the mosquitoes by night; you had better come prepared to do battle, armed with repellent, incense coils, and lotions.

While the ferry service is generally reliable during summer, even to the smaller islands, be prepared for sudden squalls or choppy waves to postpone your departure or delay your arrival. It's just the way life is, and the Greeks take it all in stride. After all, what's one day more on this lovely island? The way the locals tell it, it's worth a million bucks to the well-being of your soul.

As on the tiniest Cycladic islands of Iraklia, Donoussa, and Koufonissia, humans on this island are by far outnumbered by the goats. "When you visit the town of Panagia, you visit the Greece of 40 years ago—complete with goat herders," a doctor living on Iraklia tells me one day. Iraklia and Schinoussa, along with Donoussa and Koufonissia, are known as the lesser Cyclades.

Off the beaten path from most Greek island-hopping, these little stops are where everyone knows each other by name. If you stay a few days, before long you'll be in the kitchen with the best of them, learning the secrets behind the perfect baklava (as well as the trick to goat handling). Back on Schinoussa, it's not unusual to see locals chasing goats which have gone AWOL back into a paddock. Clucks and coos and flapping arms tend to be the coaxing methods of choice. To Greek islanders, chasing goats is a regular occurrence and a mild nuisance. To me, it's part and parcel fo the many hidden charms of this tiny island group.

The best way to see Schinoussa? Recognize and fulfill your adventurous spirit. Bring mozzie repellent, leave your worries behind, and go chase some goats up a hill.

I'm inclined to paint an image of the Cyclades with sight and sound and taste and touch. It's a picture of the clickety clack of worry beads windmilling in the fingers of the men. Of coffee breakfasts with Greek grandfathers—still pretty feisty after all these years—grinning over thimblefuls of thick black liquid. Or sweet frothy frappes, cool in the summer heat.

Each of the Cycladic Islands has a personality all its own, but they all swim at a pace guaranteed to be no faster than what you're ready for. In Hermopoulis, the neo-classical port town on the isle of Syros, I feel wise beyond my years as I sip burning glasses of ouzo on the rooftop garden with Petros, the curious old man who rents me a room.

Villa Nefeli, Petros' charmingly restored townhouse, holds only about 15 to 20 people a night. But Petros has been known to let desperate guests sleep in his kitchen. Bottom line: make a reservation a few days in advance. Each of Nefeli's rooms resembles a cozy spot at a friend's home, complete with shutters and little lamps on bedside tables, and the rooftop garden bar has possibly the island's best view of the marina, complete with stunningly extravagant sailboats and passenger ferries coming in through the wee hours.

Here, passing the days into nights with good conversation is one of the most enjoyable pastimes around. On the other extreme, dancing your butt off is also a popular option. Convinced that I need a good old-fashioned night out at the disco, Petros persuades me to spend an evening out dancing and having fun with his DJ son Markos, the local heartthrob. The Agora is a swinging little bar and restaurant with a dance floor, located near the town hall in Miaoli Square. The walls inside display local art, and in good weather the rear open-air garden accommodates additional chatting drinkers all night long.

During the summer, Markos spins a mean beat ranging from Madonna to the Gipsy Kings; depending on his mood, he might take requests. The way local girls stare at him as we walk down the street, I'm reminded of teen magazines and swooning girls at rock concerts back in middle school. Appropriate, because I find out later that Markos is famous as the spokesmodel for a popular brand of ouzo, the Greek liquor of champions.

Lest the swinging nightlife be too much for you, the religiously faithful can find solace on the island of Tinos, famous for an icon of the Virgin Mary with reportedly curative powers. The miraculous icon was first discovered by a nun who dreamed of its location in 1823. Twice a year, on March 25 and August 15, the pious come by the boatload, making the pilgrimage up to the church of Panagia Evangelistra on their hands and knees.

Adventure enthusiasts can make their own pilgrimage, in the form of a challenging hike up to the medieval fortress atop Mt. Xombourgo, 640 meters above sea level. The panoramic journey through wildflowers and winding rocky paths will help take the sting of mosquitoes away.

As with Syros, Tinos may be big in size, but it remains quite local in mentality. These two islands are still undiscovered, in that they are primarily holiday destinations for Greek nationals, with few foreign tourists.

On the island of Amorgos, the hiking is breathtaking—literally. From the sparkling rocky beaches where Luc Besson's The Big Blue was filmed, the tramp up to the famous Hozoviotissa monastery is a doozy. But if you're lucky, someone with a vehicle will help you out. I get a lift from a German geologist via motorcycle to the base of the steep steps leading up to the monastery, where the monks reward all pilgrims with warm rakomelo (heated liquor with honey) and loukamades (jelly sweets covered in powdered sugar). These treats are a must to experience while on Amorgos, and a visit is the only way to get them. The monastery is a magical architectural feat, seemingly placed by otherworldly forces on the sheer rock cliffs facing the sea.

Folegandros is among the quietest and most serene of the Cyclades, and the locals like it that way. To keep tourists at bay, prices are hiked up higher than usual during peak season. The island is a little hamlet for Italian travelers, with specialized travel agents and cafˇs catering to them. The chora is absolutely classic here, with meandering paths, bustling outdoor eateries, and blue-shuttered whitewashed buildings.

Among the hopping bars at night (as well as being a charming cafˇ by day) is Anoixto, which serves up an excellent variety of cocktails as well as a sophisticated selection of music. The Latin influences are courtesy of Christina; just ask and she'll salsa for you like nobody's business. The tiny island is also known for its strikingly dramatic landscape; rocky terraces and varied terrain make for good hiking. When you get tired, the wide sandy beaches and crystal pools on the coastline are prime places to take a snooze.

Located 141 kilometers from the Athenian port of Piraeus, Sifnos' own Kamares port is none too shabby. The magnificent harbor possesses quite a bit of seaside charm, with sailboats and yachts peppering an emerald sea. The town is pleasant and sleepy, with narrow courtyards, alleyways, and workshops where the famous Sifnian pottery is made. Be sure to take a jaunt up to the lovely chora of Apollonia, which is chock-full of little shops that sell keramiko (ceramics).

At night, Apollonia is surprisingly happening as people take to the streets for good food and drink. A must-see is the candlelit Bodgi, a bar and coffeehouse that plays jazz, blues, and funk to all hours, located in the backroads of the town.

On my last day on Sifnos, I get an invitation from Tony at the Old Captain's Bar to come back and work next summer in Kamares. "Invite your other bilingual friends, too," he says, winking and putting his arm around me. I've long since built up an immunity to his wily Mediterranean charms, but the lure of the blue island life has me unmistakably engaged with its charismatic appeal. What do I do?

I just might take him up on it.

CASE NOTES
Destination: The Cyclades, including Scchinoussa, Iraklia, Siros, Tinos, Amorgos, Folegandros, and Sifnos.
When to go: The Greek islands as a whole become a bustling hotspot during the Northern Hemisphere summer holidays (late June/August) and are crowded with all brands of European and American tourists. Temperatures range between 20 and 25 degrees C. Though the smaller Cyclades are not frequented by this party scene, for quieter times and beautifully temperate weather, visit the islands between early May and mid-June or between early September and October. Temperatures during these spring and autumn months are generally between 15 and 20 degrees C. October to March is the rainy season, and many business operators pack up and head to Athens to hibernate in the dead of winter.
Getting there: Qantas and British Airways fly from Sydney through Singapore and London to Athens. Flight time from Sydney to Singapore is roughly nine hours, from Singapore to London 13.5 and from London to Athens 3.5. Prices vary according to season, but range from $2,550 to $4,500. Ferries run to the islands from the ports of Piraeus (a 20-minute subway ride from Athens) and Rafina (an hour bus ride from Athens).
Getting around: Ferries run frequently during summer and less so in the off season. Check with the central tourist office and information booth in Athens (phone 0011 30 1331 0561, Amerikis 2, www.areianet.gr/infoxenios/GNTO), identifiable by the "i" outside, for daily and weekly ferry schedules, as well as for detailed maps and information for buses, trains, taxis, museums, embassies, and banks in the capital city and the rest of Greece. For the most updated information, Check at the information booths in Piraeus and Rafina. Where to stay: In Athens, there is plenty of accommodation for your stopover on the way to the islands; for a comfortable and inexpensive stay, try the Hotel Metropolis, Mitropoleos 46 (phone 1321 7811; ktsiaktanis@ath.forthnet.gr). On Schinoussa, call the Pothiti (phone 285 71184) or the Anesis (285 71180). On Iraklia, try Melissa, the model for one-stop shopping: it's the general store, ferry ticketer, telephone operator, post office and domatia all rolled into one (phone 285 71539). On Syros, call Villa Nefeli (phone 281 87076). On Tinos, call Yiannis (phone 283 25089). On Amorgos, try Pension Amorgos (phone 285 71013). On Folegandros, try the Meltemi Hotel (286 41328). Finally, on Sifnos, try Hotel Stavros (284 33383).
What to read: Lonely Planet, Let's Go, and the Rough Guide all cover Greece and the Cycladic islands. For a good, detailed distillation of the smaller islands, also try Thomas Cook's Greek Island Hopping.
Essentials: Australian citizens need valid passports to enter Greece and to re-enter their own country. And remember to call ahead. Shops, restaurants, and hotels close all the time at the whim of the owners' spontaneous desires to go to the beach, drink some ouzo, take a nap. Remember that "Greek time" is a pace all its own, and no amount of coaxing or drachmas will make the ferries run on time. Be prepared and be flexible. It's the best way to enjoy the spirit of the Greek isles.





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