Why Go Now
Because the Lake Tahoe area hasn't received this much snowfall in 90 years, and you don't want to miss it. Walls of snow line the roads from the lakeside village of Tahoe City to nearby resorts—Squaw Valley, Alpine Meadows and Homewood—and the powder keeps coming. Several lodgings in town offer ski-and-stay packages with discounted lift tickets.

In contrast to the party atmosphere in South Lake Tahoe, the après-ski scene in Tahoe City is a little more grown up, with a focus on excellent restaurants and laid-back bars. It's a small mountain community that still retains some local flavor. From just about any spot in town you can enjoy an inspiring view of Lake Tahoe's serene sky-blue expanse.

Where to Stay
The (1) Mayfield House, 236 Grove Street, (888) 518-8898, on the Web at www.mayfieldhouse.com , is a bed-and-breakfast within walking distance of Tahoe City's shops and restaurants. The historic stone cottage was built around 1930. In the last few years, Stan Scott, the owner, has made some welcome renovations, replacing 1970's shag carpeting with beautiful hardwood floors, adding modern steam showers in some bathrooms, wireless Internet access throughout the property, updating the décor and putting an extra cottage room with a gas fireplace in the back. Rooms range from $125 to $260, double occupancy (ask for discounted tickets to Squaw Valley, Diamond Peak and Homewood).

At (2) Sunnyside Resort, 1850 West Lake Boulevard, (800) 822-2754, on the Web at www.sunnysideresort.com , 23 lodge-style guestrooms have private decks that overlook the lake, and some have fireplaces. The resort's restaurant and bar are situated right on the lakeshore. Rooms range from $100 to $295, double occupancy, Continental breakfast and afternoon tea are included; ask for specials on lift tickets and other local discounts.

Where to Eat
For such a small town—population 2,017—Tahoe City has an impressive selection of good, fresh California cooking. (3) Coyotes Restaurant Latino, 521 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 583-6653, is a favorite in town for Spanish tapas and flavorful Mexican cuisine. Once a little taqueria that served $1.50 burritos, it has gone upscale, serving inventive dishes such as chile relleno del mar with almond-dried cherry rice, queso manchego, bay scallops and mole rojo. Try the fantastic agave wine margaritas. Open for dinner every evening; entrees from $16 to $26.

Tahoe City's newest restaurant is (4) Café Echo, 475 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 581-2372. It's a lively cafe by day—serving such breakfast dishes as chai oatmeal topped with nuts and fruit, egg omelets and a wide variety of sandwiches—and a quiet, candlelit spot by night. The best dishes are Mediterranean-influenced seafood: sautéed Pacific halibut crusted with Parmesan, lemon, shallots, capers and artichokes and served with riso pasta and garlic spinach. Open for breakfast and lunch daily, and for dinner Thursday to Sunday; entrees $17.50 to $23.

An upscale perennial, (5) Christy Hill, 115 Grove Street, (530) 583-8551, has been impressing patrons with its seasonal California cuisine for 24 years. The owner, Debbie Macrorie, has meat and seafood shipped in from the Bay Area several times a week, and in summer her chefs shop for produce at the Tahoe City farmers' market. Grilled fish tacos are delicate and lightly spicy, and pork medallions with capers and shiitake mushrooms in a lemon garlic beurre blanc are rich and satisfying. Open for dinner every day except Monday; entrees are $18 to $35.

Around the corner and a few storefronts down, (6) Wolfdale's, 640 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 583-5700, features an Asian-influenced menu: steamed shumai dumplings with sherry dip, green Thai curry seafood stew with rice stick noodles. Don't miss dessert—the creamy chai crème brûlée with spiced ginger cake is just the right sweet indulgence. Open for dinner every day but Tuesday; entrees $25 to $39.

What to Do During the Day
Lake Tahoe has the largest concentration of ski resorts in the country. For the most thrilling lake panoramas while you ski, head to (7) Homewood Mountain Resort, www.skihomewood.com , a relatively small, scenic resort with great snow and challenging terrain, just five miles south of Tahoe City. It's close to town and a local favorite; if you're trying to stay away from the masses, this is the place to go. Unlike Squaw Valley, which gets skied off in a morning, there will always be powder to find and excellent tree runs empty of people. The resort just upgraded a new triple lift at the south base area that gives beginners and intermediates more access to the mountain. And then there's the jaw-dropping lake views—for the best look while descending from the summit, take Rainbow Ridge to Cradle and drop down to the Face.

With affordable daily tickets—$25 during the week and $44 on weekends, compared to Squaw Valley's rate of $62—and lots of varied topography, (8) Alpine Meadows, www.skialpine.com , (800) 441-4423, is a popular, midsized mountain five miles from the lake shore. It's also home to the Tahoe Adaptive Ski School, and has renovated its main lodge and opened several new restaurants. The site of the 1960 Olympics, (9) Squaw Valley USA, www.squaw.com , (800) 545-4350, has a reputation for terrain that may be intimidating—4,000 lift-served acres, 34 lifts, three terrain parks, two halfpipes—but the resort has just added a custom-made double chairlift for beginners and expanded its novice area on the lower mountain. It also has a newly revamped village with more options for action off-piste.

What to Do at Night
In laid-back Tahoe City, the prevailing definition of night life usually involves a long dinner followed by a drink or two, and friendly local establishments oblige. At (10) Rosie's Cafe, 751 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 583-8504, a roaring fire and Dennis Loo's happy hour appetizers—crab cakes with chipotle aioli, buffalo wings smothered in Rosie's house hot sauce—keep locals and weekend ski bums happy. Ear-to-ear grins at the bar probably have something to do with house specialty drinks like the "ultimate pain killer," a mix of fruit juice, coconut and 94-proof rum. Grab a beer and a perfectly grilled burger at the (11) Bridgetender Tavern and Grill, 65 West Lake Boulevard, (530) 583-3342, a log-cabin tavern alongside the Truckee River next to Fanny Bridge; it has 10 brews on draft and is a cozy spot for a hot toddy or a toasted almond (bartender Patti DeRyke's warming mix of Kahlœa, Amaretto, cream and cinnamon).

At (12) Jake's on the Lake, 780 North Lake Boulevard, inside the Boatworks Mall, (530) 583-0188, patrons come for Hawaiian-themed cocktails and a fun, eclectic atmosphere in the large oak-and-glass lounge, and to enjoy exceptional vistas of the lake.

The (13) Pierce Street Annex, 850 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 583-5800, a saloon-style bar with pool tables that brings in a D.J. Thursday to Saturday, attracts younger people who want to get their dancing feet on.

Where to Shop
This being an outdoor town, (14) Alpenglow, 415 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 583-6917, and the (15) Back Country, 690 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 581-5861, are the top shops to be outfitted with any kind of active gear, and to find local advice on the best conditions. Housed in a 1930's building with a newly renovated gallery space on the lake, the (16) North Tahoe Arts Center, 380 North Lake Boulevard, (530) 581-2787, features regional artists and sells their work in the adjoining ARTisan Shop. Housewares with character can be found at (17) Maison Rustique, 495 North Lake Boulevard, Suite 172, (530) 581-2385, including furniture, vintage-style ski posters and hand-knit scarves.

How to Stay Wired
(18) Vicky's Cyber Café, 255 North Lake Boulevard near the junction of Routes 89 and 28, (530) 581-5312, offers coffee and computers. Rates start at $3 for 15 minutes. Closed Sunday.

Your First Time or 10th
The annual North Lake Tahoe Snow Festival, www.tahoesnowfestival.com, runs from March 4 to 13, complete with opening ceremonies and fireworks at Squaw Valley and events such as the Sunnyside Luau and the 15th Annual Polar Bear Swim.

How to Get There
Tahoe City is about 45 minutes by car from Reno/Tahoe International Airport, two hours from Sacramento International Airport, and three from San Francisco. Flights from J.F.K. to Reno/Tahoe start at about $349 on Delta in early March. For more information, contact the North Lake Tahoe Resort Association, (800) 824-6348; www.mytahoevacation.com .