June 5, 2005
A Faded Area Finds Fresh Appeal
Despite having two national historic districts within its borders, the West Side of Providence has long been a run-down area, its crumbling 18th- and 19th-century Victorians and magnificent mill buildings cut off from the rest of downtown by a noisy swath of Interstate 95. But artists from elsewhere in the city have flocked to the neighborhood in recent years looking for the last affordable loft spaces, helping to fuel a community-led revitalization effort that has resulted in brilliantly restored buildings and a crop of hip restaurants, cafes, and boutique shops appealing to new young residents.
"It's very artsy, very supportive; I love it here," said Peggy Lo, owner of Figments, at 717 Westminster Street; (401) 588-5180; www.figmentsdesign.com. It is a high-ceilinged boutique with walls painted deep red and brown and a beautifully curated collection of handmade stationery, books and furniture.
Ms. Lo, who is from Taipei, studied graphic design at the Rhode Island School of Design and has lived in Providence for 11 years. "The artist communities have come here looking for space and light to work, because it's not as heavily developed as the East Side, and it's more affordable and available," she said.
Other design offerings include modern home furnishings at Abode, a year-old shop next door at 713 Westminster Street, (401) 351-2004), and carefully chosen vintage items—mostly midcentury finds like child-sized Eames-style rocking chairs, pink Trimline telephones, and mod 1960's block-print dresses—at Rocket to Mars, 144 Broadway, (401) 274-0905, in the Broadway-Armory Historic District. (The other historic area in the West Side is the Bridgham-Arch-Wilson Streets district.)
The center of the cafe culture on the West Side is White Electric Coffee, 711 Westminster Street, (401) 453-3007, a light-filled space with pressed-tin ceilings and walls, all painted white and decorated with local art. Hanging plants frame the front window, and the message boards that tell what's going on around town. Ginger scones, organic oatmeal and tall glasses of iced coffee are rung up on an antique cash register painted gold.
Providence's hot restaurant scene has also made it to this side of town. Nicks on Broadway, 259 Broadway, (401) 421-0286, www.nicksonbroadway.com, is a tiny breakfast and lunch spot owned by Derek Wagner, former executive chef at Agora in the Westin Providence. After two years, the neighborhood favorite is making the move down the street to a bigger site by summer's end.
"At the new place, we're planning to serve our prix-fixe dinner four or five times a week, instead of just on Fridays," said Mr. Wagner, who lives nearby. "I wanted the restaurant to grow slowly, with the neighborhood. Now that it's happening, it's all pretty exciting."
In the meantime, night owls find a lively hangout at Julians, 318 Broadway, (401) 861-1770, www.juliansprovidence.com, a bohemian-flavored bistro and bar with fliers for poetry readings posted on the window, brick walls covered with the work of local artists and a seasonal menu that might feature smoked salmon crostini or shepherd's pie.
And at Decatur Lounge, 18 Luongo Square, (401) 351-5492, a friendly bar with outdoor tables and a jukebox with songs from all eras, the scene is so current that an episode of a series called "Brotherhood," which Showtime has just decided to put on the air, was recently shot on location there.