May 25, 2003 North Africa and Europe Meet on a Tapas Tour Under the Alhambra's glow, Plaza Nueva offers a taste tour. Granada, Spain—In Andalusia, the heart of southern Spain, the tapeo is the regional version of bar-hopping. In this majestic old city set on three hills against a backdrop of snowy Sierra Nevada mountains, winding narrow streets lead to any number of tapas restaurants and bars, sidewalk cafes, and Arab teterias, or tearooms. Sitting high above the crumbling cobblestone bridges of the Rio Darro, the famous Moorish palace of the Alhambra—a sprawling complex of stone arches and towers, red fortress walls, marbled chambers, ornamentally tiled cupolas, and lush, irrigated gardens—awaits visitors in grande-dame fashion. My boyfriend Matt and I are here on a two-week spring holiday just before Semana Santa, the busy Holy Week for what is usually thought of as traditionally Roman Catholic Spain. But Granada is indelibly marked by its past as the final outpost of Muslim Spain, and the Alhambra, the 11th-century Arab baths, and the still lively Moorish barrio of Albaicin are all reminders of a rich and storied medieval era. The flavors of that past have, happily, infused the regional food as well; in the "Little Morocco" quarter of Albaicin, falafel and couscous dishes are regulars on the menu, and Moroccan cakes and pastries are as much a part of daily cuisine as churros y chocolate. There's no better place to start a tapas bar tour in this town than Plaza Nueva, and lucky for us, the apartment we have rented is but a stone's throw from the promenade that leads to it. On the first night, we wander around absorbing the energy of the streets: Granada is a pedestrian town, and visitors and locals alike are out to enjoy the season's fresh air. Cats scamper along the alleyways, and geese waddle along the Rio Darro, which wends its way picturesquely between our apartment and the busy plaza. Looking up, we see the magnificent ziggurat of the Alhambra bathed in a floodlighted amber glow. In the midst of this spectacular setting, we need food to ground us. Up a side street off the plaza, we come across a tapas bar named Bodegas Castaneda. It's mostly standing room around the bar, with a few tables along the side and patrons leaning against wine barrels with their drinks and little plates. The tradition of receiving a complimentary tapa with a drink order still holds here; we ask for two glasses of rioja, the celebrated local wine, and are promptly served a plate of bread and tortilla espanola, egg omelette cooked with generous chunks of potato. Flanks of lomo, or cured pork loin, hang atmospherically above the bar, but we opt for additional tapas of queso manchego, a mild cheese with a little bit of bite, and boquerones, fresh anchovies drizzled with olive oil and served with slices of tomato. The establishment is also decorated with hand-painted tiles and bowls, an antique cash register, and functioning barrels of local wine. The mood is busy and warm, and the buzzing chatter and clinking glasses signal happy patrons. A few things to note when eating tapas-style: A tapa is the smallest plate, while a racion is a larger portion. If you're just looking to try a few items, ask for a tapa of each. Raciones are a bit more expensive, but they're ideal once you know what you like. Our next stop, Antigua Bodega Castaneda, is a bar and restaurant charmingly decorated with glass display cases filled with bottles of all shapes, colors, and sizes. The dimly lighted interior seems appropriate for a romantic interlude, but as we wait for our food the bad Spanish rock music piping through the speakers breaks the spell. Here, we decide to experiment: I find that ensalada verde—a somewhat depressing plate of lettuce, tomato, olives, and cucumbers that resembles standard diner fare back home—is arguably the closest you'll come to vegetables in this country. But the aceitunas, olives marinated in garlic and fine herbs, are exceptional; the cazuela, or stew, of spinach, garbanzos, and chorizo sausage is hearty but oily. Though far from a meat enthusiast, I feel obliged to try a tapa of Andalusia's famous jamon serrano, or cured ham. It's tasty in a salty way, with a soft and fleshy texture. Matt, with his sweet tooth, takes a liking to the vino semidulce, a crisp, fruity white wine. Back on the street, we go for a walk in a vain attempt to offset the mounting calories. Matt says Granada is a city of sounds, and he's right: University students pound out flamenco and shout "Ole!" on a makeshift stage; dreadlocked youths strum guitar in the plazas; antiwar protesters chant during a candlelighted vigil; squirrels with white-striped bellies chirp in the trees; a man sings badly but exuberantly in what he must assume is the privacy of his own house on a quiet street. The narrow, winding corridors of the Albaicin carry the sound quite well. Granada was home to poet and dramatist Federico Garcia Lorca, who wrote that "the hours are longer and sweeter here than in any other Spanish town." It's true that the sun lingers at the end of the day, but even when night comes the sweetness continues on in the food. The best ice cream by far is found at Los Italianos, an institution whose light and creamy blend of helado keeps people queued up at its counters each day. In the Albaicin, Moroccan pastry shops exhibit windows lined with mouth-watering tartas arabes, made with dates, figs, almonds, and hazelnuts, wrapped in a crepe-paper-thin pastry. One afternoon in the Plaza de la Concepcion, we find La Teteria del Banuelo, a little tearoom stationed next to the famous old Arab bathhouse. With two comfortable rooms strewn with pillows, painted tiles, a blue and yellow stained-glass skylight, and an outdoor garden, it's the perfect place to spend a late evening sipping a mint infusion tea or a batido de vainilla, the Arab version of a milkshake. The teteria also serves a delicious harissa, or Marrakechi honey cake. To top it all off? For eight euros, you can smoke a narguila—a hookah filled with a flavored tobacco of your choice: strawberry-apple, mint, or peach. One of the favorite tapas of the region is the pulpo, or octopus. The best seafood is found on the coast of Andalusia, in Malaga, a port city on our way to Granada, where we first witness the striking sight of a tapas barman lifting huge fistfuls of octopus out of the sink and into a giant boiling cauldron of water. Afterward, when the octopus is just cooked, the barwomen load it on the cutting board and chop away furiously. The pieces are then grilled in oil and drizzled with vinegar. Even though Granada is a couple of hours inland, the octopus here is fine and tender, with a flavor that explodes in your mouth. At Ras Bar, located on the Carrera del Darro near our apartment, the best thing on the menu is the salpicon de pulpo, a grilled octopus salad served in olive oil with chopped tomato, red onion, and green pepper. As the birthplace of both flamenco dancing and the tapas tradition, Andalusia is often thought of as the most quintessentially Spanish region of the country. And after eating our way around Granada's Plaza Nueva, we find it hard to argue with that claim. On our last evening in Granada, as the sun sets over the city Matt and I climb high on the hill opposite the Alhambra to the Carmen Mirador de Aixa restaurant. I order two glasses of tinto del verano, a summer red wine infused with sparkling water. At the end of a hot day, the refreshing drink is a perfect pairing with the clear emerging night, and the smells of the kitchen tempt us to have an encore. Here, with food so tied to the context of place, a tapas bar tour is the ideal way to experience southern Spain. As we settle in with our glasses, the glow of the Alhambra and the stars winking above turn the day into one of the longest, sweetest evenings we have ever savored. IF YOU GO Resources Travelers can get maps of Granada's tapas restaurants from the main branch of the local tourist office (Corral del Carbon, 011-34-958-22-1022). The Rough Guide series just released its updated book on Andalusia (www.roughguides.com, $16.95). General information can be found at www.andalucia.com. Where to stay Hotel Macia Plaza Plaza Nueva, 4 011-34-958-22-75-36 www.maciahoteles.com A clean, modern hotel with excellent views in the heart of lively Plaza Nueva, within walking distance of the Alhambra. Rooms: $56 (double) to start. Granada Info www.granadainfo.com Lists a wide range of self-catering apartments, from simple studios to well-appointed penthouses (for example, Escritores Apartments start at about $35 a night, double, for a one-bedroom with living room, kitchen, and bathroom located in the shadow of the Alhambra). Detailed photos of the properties are available, and you can search by travel dates and price. The website is also a useful insiders' guide to the city. Where to eat When they're not served complimentary with your drink, tapas generally range from $1 to $5 each, and raciones from $3 to $10. Bodegas Castaneda Calle Almireceros, 1, 3 011-34-958-21-5464 Just off Plaza Nueva. Order a drink and you get a tapa of bread and tortilla espanola (egg omelette with potato). Antigua Bodega Castaneda Calle Elvira, 5 011-34-958-22-6362, 958-229-706 A charming bar/restaurant good for parties up to four - the long narrow room makes it awkward for larger gatherings - with excellent olives marinated in garlic and herbs. El Rinconcillo Plaza de Santa Ana, 6 011-34-958-39-9411 A quiet little neighborhood bar next to the Pilar del Oro restaurant and the church of Santa Ana. Grab one of the few tables outside and order the tabla variada, a platter of cheeses, cured meats, and a pisto (tomato salsa) served with a complimentary tapita of bread, olives, and tortilla espanola. Las Chirimias Paseo de los Tristes, 1 011-34-958-22-6882 A bar and restaurant with outside seating on the plaza (a.k.a. Paseo del Padre Manjon) and a stellar view of the Alhambra at night. Offers set menus, pizzas, and a good selection of tapas. Ras Bar Carrera del Darro, 6 011-34-958-22-52-27 Order the salpicon de pulpo at this modern bar with a rustic brick interior, wooden tables, and friendly service. Kasbah Teteria Calle Caldereria Nueva, 4 011-34-958-22-7936 In Albaicin, located on the main pedestrian walkway that is lined with shops, stalls, and bars. The couscous de pollo - chicken stewed with dates, raisins, orange peels, and spices in a broth with couscous - is a hearty and tasty meal in itself. La Teteria del Banuelo Plaza de la Concepcion 011-34-696-60-2459 Our favorite little teahouse. Sit by the trickling fountain in the front room, which is decorated with paintings and mirrors. |
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