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April 26, 2006 Get Outside in Santa Cruz Classic beach town has endless charm. One of the country's great surfing capitals, Santa Cruz has a laid-back charm that doesn't get old. If this quintessential California beach town were a date, it would be the classic sun-bleached blond surfer dude with a great smile. And the activity? Any outdoor adventure you want, guaranteed to thrill. Located 70 miles south of San Francisco, Santa Cruz has miles of sandy beaches and world-class waves. Along the 2-mile coastal walk called West Cliff Drive, you'll get a sense of the people—runners, cyclists, fit-looking young parents—and the stunning ocean scenery that characterize the place. Surfers bob with seals and otters along the stretch of water near Natural Bridges State Beach, where coastal scrub meadows and spring wildflowers provide a colorful backdrop to the dramatic sea-eroded sandstone structures on the beach. The park also houses the state's only monarch butterfly preserve, the winter home to thousands of insects. On West Cliff Drive, inside the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse, the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum pays tribute to 100 years of surfing history. Exhibits include old-fashioned 1930s redwood plank surfboards and early versions of wet suits. The cliffs outside overlook Steamer Lane, a well-known surf site with a fabled right point break that attracts the pros. Not surprisingly, surf schools abound. With its sheltered point break, gentle waves, and shallow water, Cowell's Beach is one of the best for beginner lessons. It also has historical significance for the surf scene here—in the 1940s, the Santa Cruz Surfing Club rented a former hamburger stand on the beach and turned it into its official clubhouse. Visitors who would rather spend their time on top of the water can rent kayaks at Santa Cruz Harbor and cruise the mellower waters there. But this being Santa Cruz and waves being abundant, locals have latched on to "surf kayaking" as a popular high-adrenaline sport. Santa Cruz even hosts an annual kayak surf festival in March, the self-proclaimed "largest contest of its kind on the planet." But for a taste of the natural life, you can't beat the paddling at Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve, one of the last remaining protected coastal wetlands in the state. Thirty minutes south of Santa Cruz, on the way to Monterey, sea otters and harbor seals lounge in the marshes and migrating shorebirds swoop through in spring and fall. Several Santa Cruz-based kayak operators, including Kayak Connection, lead daylong trips through the estuary. There is plenty of activity off the water, too. Just north of town off Highway 1, Wilder Ranch State Park has 34 miles of hiking, biking, and equestrian trails. In the opinion of many locals, this is the best park for biking in the state. The Old Cove Landing Trail takes even inexperienced cyclists to stunning ocean bluff views, while a heart-pumping climb from Wilder Ridge challenges the tougher set with an exploration of the park's characteristic stairlike terraces. Interior trails lead to valleys and redwood forests and connect up with bike networks managed by other state parks and the nearby University of California at Santa Cruz. Even on land, along the ridgelines high above the shore, one has to appreciate the area's closeness to the sea. Pelicans hang in the airstreams near trail cliff lookouts, ready to dive down and scoop up dinner. Fresh California cuisine in this town means plenty of seafood and piquant Mexican influences. And because Santa Cruz is home to a college crowd, prices tend to skew toward the affordable end of the spectrum. Inventively flavored, textured rolls are the star attraction at Mobo Sushi, a popular restaurant located in the Galleria shopping center downtown. The Snoball Maki consists of snow crab, mandarin orange, cashews, and coconut ($5.25), while the Tropi Maki features unagi, avocado, and macadamia nuts ($5). Simpler, classic tastes are also catered to on the menu, and an extensive vegetarian and vegan selection is available. The restaurant also offers "Roll Your Own!" ingredient platters, with servings of rice and nori starting at $2 and individual additions at 50 cents. For margaritas and Mexican, head to El Palomar. You'll find super-fresh salsas, locally caught seafood, and homemade corn tortillas. House specials include oysters on the half-shell, topped with salsa fresca and served with lime wedges ($15 for a dozen), and shrimp-and-octopus ceviche cocktail, served in a spicy seafood broth with fresh tortilla chips ($10). The outdoor cantina is open late and always hopping; ask for a table in the elegant dining room for a quieter experience. The famous Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk is a must visit. Opened in 1907, the boardwalk is California's oldest amusement park, and scenes from the 1987 vampire classic "The Lost Boys" were shot here. This is the West Coast's own Coney Island (the 1924 roller coaster and the 1911 carousel, with its meticulously hand-carved wooden horses, are designated National Historic Landmarks). Just off Beach Street, Santa Cruz Wharf extends into the water, a half-mile stretch of vendor stalls and salty air. From the end of the wharf, you'll get a good view of where the salmon fishing boats assemble for the start of the fishing season in May—and if you peer through the holes cut in the walkway, you'll also get a gander at chubby sea lions honking from below. It's an ideal spot to end a weekend date with this lively surf town. |
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