August 25, 2004 Seaside Splendor in Monterey Colorful California community offers waterfront hubbub and quiet luxury. At first, it's so dark that I can't see my hand in front of my face. Then, because there's nothing else discernible, my eyes are drawn to the massive, backlighted expanse of glass that is the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Outer Bay exhibit, a glowing magic window into the pulsing, living waters that edge the largest marine sanctuary in the United States. The limitless, inky black and blue of the viewing chambers, the muffled whispers of the crowd, and the elegant ripple and flash of giant yellowfin tuna in the million-gallon tank all work in concert to convey the feeling of being truly in the deep—a feeling that's so authentic as to induce a kind of trance. And it's this out-of-body experience that keeps visitors coming back for more, pulling in an average of 1.7 million people each year to the aquarium. Perhaps the best thing about the Outer Bay's $57 million viewing galleries, which opened in 1996 to great fanfare, is that they make up just one part of the aquarium; in October, the institution celebrates 20 years of education, conservation research, and knock-your-socks-off marine exhibits. This year, the aquarium tries to outdo itself once again. The 20th-anniversary festivities kicked off in April, with a new special exhibition, "Sharks: Myth and Mystery." The show features displays of sharks, rays, and the global cultural traditions the creatures have spawned. The opening of a soaring new atrium and a ticket lobby adds to the sense of grandeur upon entry, as does a new skywalk connecting the second-floor wings. In June, the Aquarium Adventures program was launched, offering exceptional hands-on activities for all ages, including scuba diving for children in the Great Tide Pool exhibit, feeding tours before opening time, and Science Under Sail, which takes guests on three-hour research expeditions on sailboats around Monterey Bay. The Monterey Bay Aquarium's draw rests on its exhibits' potential to engage adults and children alike. Both can be spotted wearing cardboard shark hats, with faces pressed against the glass, nose-to-nose with white-tip reef and zebra sharks. And the staff accomplishes this by assembling interactive displays that tell stories, invite visitors to touch and examine animals and plants, and above all, showcase marine life in all its glory. The award-winning "Jellies: Living Art" pairs fine art installations with live jellyfish exhibits; a mirrored hall of tanks is filled with moon jellyfish, hypnotizing viewers for hours with a ghostly, shimmering dance of pale, glowing orbs. Another prize-winning program is Seafood Watch, which distributes wallet-size guides to help consumers make environmentally responsible choices about the fish they eat. Guidelines aim to reduce consumption of overfished and endangered populations. This focus on water, and on the life in it, is inescapable in Monterey. The picturesque seaside community has its cultural and economic history steeped in the bay, with a sardine canning industry made famous in John Steinbeck's 1945 novel, "Cannery Row." The sardine population collapsed after World War II—the last canning operation, Hovden Food Products Corp., closed in 1972, and the building was converted into the aquarium. And though the predominant industry has swung away from fishing to tourism, the past still flavors Cannery Row and Fisherman's Wharf today. After a day at the aquarium, or even in anticipation of it, you'll want to spend time on the water itself. Sea kayakers launch from the marina and make their way along the coast, exploring kelp forests and navigating waters lively with otters, harbor seals, Western gulls, and sea lions. Whale-watching boats leave from May through October to observe the summer migration of humpbacks, orcas, and blue whales. In winter, trips follow the California gray whales as they head south to the Baja Peninsula. Sport-fishing trips go out all year, following the seasons for salmon, cod, snapper, and albacore. On land, bicycles whiz and pedestrians stroll along the waterfront's recreational beach trail. To balance the outdoor enthusiast in you, there are indoor pursuits in Monterey: restaurants, boutiques, and movie theaters, as well as upscale inns and bed-and-breakfasts catering to weekenders. For quiet luxury in a residential neighborhood away from the waterfront hubbub, the Old Monterey Inn is the ideal choice. Five minutes from Cannery Row, the Tudor-style manor house, built in 1929 by Carmel Martin Sr., the first mayor of Monterey, exudes calm opulence. Towering redwoods, Monterey pines, and California oaks frame the ivy-covered inn, snuggled in a colorful bloom of impatiens, hydrangeas, rhododendrons, and wisteria. Run by Patricia Valletta, the much-lauded bed-and-breakfast has 10 rooms and suites, including the Garden Cottage, which has its own vine-covered patio. In the Mayfield Suite, sunlight streams in through a wall of windows and the skylight above, and a gas fireplace doubles as a temperature regulator. An in-room whirlpool tub sits in one corner, and the space comes to life through small, thoughtful touches: spotted orchids, a pine trunk for sitting and storage, deep, comfortable chairs by the fireplace. The intimate lodge experience is further enhanced by the staff's accommodating and friendly manner; breakfast can be taken in the house dining room, in the garden, in your room, or packed into a picnic basket for an early departure. The food offerings in Monterey are plentiful: Any palate can be pleased, be it by sushi or English pub fare, French-Californian or Pacific Rim fusion. First Awakenings is Monterey's most popular breakfast and lunch spot, opened by longtime friends Craig Bell and Chris Walsh in 1993. The restaurant has been turning out fresh, healthy food with fast, efficient service for more than a decade. Faced with a deep menu and inexpensive prices, you're bound to find something to like: a homemade Belgian waffle dusted with powdered sugar is $4.95, and the most expensive dish, chicken-fried steak, is $8.50. Fresh Cream is the much-heralded dinner choice. With impeccable service, a diverse and balanced wine list, and a meticulously prepared menu created by executive chef Gregory Lizza—strong on seafood, of course—the restaurant is a splurge, but a worthwhile one. As in the rest of Monterey, the bounty of the ocean is plentiful—and you don't have to catch it yourself to enjoy it. TRAVELER'S TASTE A feast for the eyes and the palate—dining here is blur of indulgence. The hardest part about dinner at Fresh Cream was finding our way there. Perched on the second floor of an unassuming office complex near Fisherman's Wharf, the restaurant is across a footbridge from the Heritage Harbor parking garage. But once we make it through the maze of buildings and up the stairs, the evening takes on a deliciously serene quality. Five intimate dining rooms, all filled with natural light during the day, reflect the winking lights of Monterey Harbor once the sun dips below the horizon. In this tranquil aerie above the tourist bustle, the waiters show an informed grace with the menu and with customers. Attentive service is clearly a point of pride at Fresh Cream; regulars at a reserved corner table receive a warm welcome from the restaurant manager, but it's a testament to expert handling that we don't feel any less welcome. Our server asks if we have questions about the menu, then gives us ample time to peruse its offerings. We order martinis—the house version comes with a ripe red strawberry perched on the rim—but note the smart presentation of the rich, varied, and much-decorated wine list. Strong on California wines but with a selective offering of French bottles, the book is organized by varietal; outside corkage fee is $20. Additional kudos for the choice wine selection come from the couple at the corner table: "We usually bring our own bottle, but we never do when we come here." Each table is placed strategically for a view of the harbor, and there's plenty to look at after we order. But distractions from inside the dining room offer stiff competition. An amuse-bouche arrives from the kitchen, chef Gregory Lizza's caviar tartlet: a dollop of crême fraîche on a pastry shell, with red onion and flying-fish roe. And a murmured exchange from the diners seated two tables away goes along these lines: Woman No. 1: "That is so good." Woman No. 2. "Mmmmmm." When our food arrives, we are not disappointed. The lobster ravioli are robust and explode with flavor, presented with stripes of lobster butter and Riesling beurre blanc, as well as two small Belgian endives topped with lumpfish and flying-fish roe, which add an essential spareness to an otherwise rich appetizer. The sauteed scallops arrive lightly browned, sitting atop creamy lemon caper beurre blanc, dill fettuccine, artichokes, mushrooms, and sweet fennel. I don't typically adore cream sauces, but this is just enough, with regard to flavor intensity and quantity, to pique and satisfy. The rest of the meal proceeds in a blur of indulgence. A sprightly dinner salad of mixed greens, tomato vinaigrette, pancetta, bacon, and asiago cleanses the palate before the main event: snow-white halibut atop a base of whipped potatoes, ringed with sweet onion sauce, cabernet wine reduction, and olive oil, and garnished with an orchid and two slim scallion antennae. The fish is delicate yet meaty, and the flavors of the onion sauce and the wine reduction swim together in an unusual but beautiful way. Then there is the matter of dessert. We watch the progression of soufflé au Grand Marnier, tarte Tatin, and double vanilla crême brulée, but choose to finish with smooth, flourless dark chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream on a brilliant red raspberry coulis. On second thought, perhaps the hardest thing about dinner at Fresh Cream is leaving. Fresh Cream, Heritage Harbor, Suite 100C, 99 Pacific St.; 831-375-9798. Entrees $27-$39. |
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