In the epic Chugach Range, just 250 feet above sea level and overlooking the majestic blue expanse of Turnagain Arm, Alyeska Resort is a bit unusual when it comes to ski resorts: It has the lowest base elevation of any large ski area in the United States.

Because it is so near the Cook Inlet tidal waters, the region also has surprisingly mild winter temperatures, in the 20s and 30s, practically balmy when compared with the frigid interior of the state, not to mention northern New England's habitual single-digit weather. And yet, Alyeska is routinely walloped by more than 750 inches of snow each year, much of it underappreciated by skiers in the Lower 48.

Here's another secret: Located in this laid-back mountain town, the resort is just a quick 40-mile jaunt southeast of Anchorage, which makes it convenient for those who jet in to enjoy a few days of untracked powder and try out the steeps.

The snow has a long shelf life, often lasting from early November until Memorial Day weekend. To make up for short daylight hours during the winter months, 27 lighted trails provide excellent weekend night skiing until 9:30.

Last February, a friend and I drove along the spectacularly beautiful stretch of the Seward Highway between Anchorage and Girdwood, flanked by craggy peaks and glittery tidal waters, their liquid-blue surface broken by ice floes. The ride took less than an hour, and with all the magnificent views to take in under the beauty of the radiant sun—the snow-covered mountains mirrored in Cook Inlet, for instance—we arrived at Alyeska almost before I realized it.

Girdwood is a quiet, casual town. Originally, and aptly, named Glacier City, it served as a gold mining and railroad supply camp in the early 20th century. These days, general stores and accommodations primarily serve skiers and summer tourists, but the town still maintains a local feel, avoiding the souvenir kitsch that comes with most ski areas.

Though a popular destination for conferences, and frequented by many locals, Alyeska's 1,400 acres of skiable terrain are uncrowded. An added attraction is the 307-room Alyeska Prince Hotel, with rich cherry interiors, Jacuzzis, and a heated saltwater swimming pool. The rooms aren't huge, but the beds are cushy with down comforters, and the views are superb. Dramatic black-and-white photographs of frozen waterfalls and stark forest landscapes decorate the walls, and by the large picture windows at each elevator bank, comfortable chairs are placed so you can stop and take in the towering, snow-laden trees and mountain slopes. At night, you can request a wake-up call from the front desk to ensure you don't miss the Northern Lights.

Though there weren't any flashy night lights during our visit, there was plenty of activity on the slopes to keep us busy. With ski-in/ski-out access, a complimentary ski and snowboard check, a skating pond, and a new business center, the hotel is a cozy and convenient ski oasis.

The mountain's aerial tram departs right from the hotel for the Glacier Terminal, at an elevation of 2,300 feet. On our first morning, sweeping views of Glacier Valley and Turnagain Arm made the 3 1/2-minute ride fly by. At the top, the mountain's varied terrain unfolded appealingly before us. The Seven Glaciers restaurant at the tram dock serves dinner on weekend evenings throughout winter, specializing in Alaskan seafood and game. Glacier Express, the mountaintop cafeteria, is also a great place to have lunch and look out through the clouds to the valley floor below.

From Glacier Terminal, the steep, narrow, and, to me, terrifying, Christmas Chute is a welcome challenge for experts, and it leads right into the North Face, which claims to be the longest ungroomed double black diamond run in North America, with 2,750 feet of vertical at a 48-degree pitch. I chose to carve my way through wide-open bowls and take a less treacherous route through numerous hidden powder stashes and glades to hit the North Face mid-mountain.

Alyeska earns top marks for stunning views. No matter how many times I rode up the chairlift, I couldn't resist turning around to get an eyeful of the gleaming inlet and lower peaks below.

Schussers of the greener variety needn't worry; there's plenty of gentle terrain and family-friendly fun to be had even here in wild Alaska. Last year, the mountain opened Glacier Tubing Park, a 600-foot hill near the base area catering to families and nonskiers.

As for après-ski, there's only one place to go in Girdwood, and that's the Double Musky Inn. It's a bit of a surprise to find a Cajun-style establishment in snowy Alaska, but somehow it works. Lights and beads are strewn from every possible hook and nail in the warm wood interior, the bar is hopping, and the walls are hung with postcards sent from around the world.

The atmosphere is part roadhouse, part greenhouse (ask for a table in the glass atrium for views of the wintry surroundings), and part steakhouse. You can't go wrong with the halibut ceviche or the French, pepper-encrusted steak au poivre, and you're unlikely to get such colossal-sized Alaskan king crab legs at any New England ski town near you.

Though it was a long way to come for a few days of skiing, it was, in the end, pure Alaska.