BACKPACKER

Backpacker, February 2005
Cover story: Hikers' Guide to Heavenly Hot Springs


Native Americans consider hot springs sacred. Pioneer hucksters claimed they had magic healing powers. Hikers just think they feel awfully good after a long slog. The key, of course, is finding one far from beer-packing partiers. These wilderness springs require sturdy, crowd-discouraging journeys amid stunning scenery.

Bear Valley, ID: Soak Up Wild Idaho
The Hike: This mellow 7-mile round-trip leads through meadowlands and tail pine forests in the Frank Church-River of No Return WIlderness. You'll follow gushing Bear Valley Creek, which merges with Marsh Creek 10 miles downstream. Step carefully when fording the 60-foot-wide creek (don't cross if it's higher than knee-deep). at the tree carved with the letters HS, head down a steep slope to a string of rock-lined hot pools that cascade tot he creek. The water comes up at 130 degrees F in the sources pool, but cools as it descends. This is a sensitive salmon-spawning area, so as at all springs, pack out all trash and waste, and don't use soap. The Hot Spot: In Stanley, the Bridge Street Burger and Brew's down-home nosh includes sourdough pancakes and a 1-pound woolly mammoth burger. 208-774-2208 The Way: Drive 20 miles northwest of Stanley on ID 21, then turn west on FR 82/579; after 8 miles, enter the Fir Creek Campground. 208-879-4101

Arizona Hot Springs, AZ: Splash in Heated Waterfalls
The Paddle: Bighorn sheep and wild burros perch on the steep rock walls of Black Canyon on the lower Colorado River, providing a surreal backdrop for a soak. You'll canoe 11 miles from Hoover Dam to the mesmerizing geothermal smorgasbord. Pools range from 110 degrees F to scalding 140 degrees F in several high-walled canyons, including Boy Scout, Gold Strike, and Lone Palm; you'll also find sauna caves and heated waterfalls (get a river map for specific locations). Reserve a canoe in advance; the BLM limits the number of boats to keep the area pristine. The Hot Spot: Got an extra day? Boulder City's Bootleg Canyon Mountain Bike Park has a trail that earned a rare "epic ride" designation fromthe International Mountain Bicycling Association. www.bootlegcanyon.com The Way: From Las Vegas, take US 93/95 south; continue on US 93 to the dam warehouse (the put-in). Down River Outfitters (800-748-3702) rents boats for $50 a day.

Conundrum Hot Springs, CO: Hike to America's Highest Spring
The Hike: Conundrum is just outside Aspen in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness, so yes, it's popular. But head there midweek and the nation's highest spring might be all yours. The climb begins at 8.700 feet and follows Conundrum Valley up almost 3,000 feet over 9 miles, topping out at two pools -- one of them 10 feet across -- in the shadow of Castle Peak, which at 14,265 is the Elk Range's alpha summit. The water emerges in the 100 to 105 degrees F range -- perfect for lying back and taking in snow-fed waterfalls, stands of aspen, and avalanche chutes.

The Hot Spot: A fixture since the 1890's, the Hotel Jerome's J-Bar serves the signature Manhaspen (think Manhattan meets Aspen) -- bourbon mixed with Tuaca, a vanilla and citrus liqueur favored by locals. 800-331-7213
The Way: Go north on CO 82 and turn left on FR 102. Turn left at Castle Creek Road and go 5 miles, then follow signs to the trailhead. 970-925-3445